## The Stage as a Dress: Samuel Lewis's Vision for Lady Gaga

It begins in a cascade of crimson: a stage draped in red curtains, lights flashing in scarlet hues. This is **Lady Gaga**, where theatricality is expected. As the lights brighten, it becomes clear she isn't standing on a massive stage—she's wearing it.

A militaristic bodice extends into the sweeping velvet drapes of a **7.5-meter-high gown**. "It's not just a dress; it's a moving piece of art, an **engineering feat**," explains Australian-Taiwanese designer Samuel Lewis, who conceived the design in collaboration with LA-based costume designer Athena Lawton.

The full scope of the costume reveals itself when Gaga's skirt opens to expose a metal cage beneath, with dancers twisting and reaching behind its steel bars. Lewis pushed his creative boundaries to envision and execute this design. "We had to ask, how enormous can something like this be?"

![Lady Gaga in a black goth gown with a black wig on a red carpet](https://i.guim.co.uk/img/media/575af940ba1ad83a911c0602134e080b0e2c2569/0_0_4800_3429/master/4800.jpg?width=445&dpr=1&s=none&crop=none)
*Lady Gaga attends the 67th Grammy awards in a costume by Samuel Lewis. Photograph: Axelle/Bauer-Griffin/FilmMagic*

Gaga's **Mayhem Ball tour**, a full-throttle return to over-the-top camp, isn't the first collaboration between her and the 26-year-old designer. Beyond crafting all the looks for the tour's first act, Lewis designed her outfits for the 2025 Grammys and music videos for "Disease" (a grey illusion gown of hand-dyed silk, evoking decay) and "Abracadabra" (a red-boned silk dress showcasing his passion for corsetry).

Since graduating from Florence's **Polimoda in 2024**, Lewis has rapidly gained recognition in celebrity circles for blending meticulous engineering with a chaotic, grungy romanticism—a fusion that makes his work feel both dynamic and disciplined.

He immerses himself in complex constructions: Russian-doll dresses within dresses, flawlessly boned corsets, and pieces that move, interlock, and transform. These creations must function under pressure, supporting weight and enduring vigorous stage performances. Designing for aesthetics is one challenge; designing for durability during a show is entirely another.

Other stars who have embraced his work include **Chappell Roan**, members of **Blackpink**, **Julia Fox**, and **Madonna**. He's also crafting Christina Aguilera's look for a Christmas special.

![Julia Fox in a red sequinned gown with puffy peplum](https://i.guim.co.uk/img/media/37b92ab3fd18f1d44b6492e9068aaf1a23e15965/0_0_3722_5583/master/3722.jpg?width=445&dpr=1&s=none&crop=none)
*Julia Fox wearing a custom dress from Lewis. Photograph: Jacopo M Raule/Getty Images for Luisaviaroma*

## Influences and Inspirations: From Film to Fabrics

Lewis dismisses notions of precocious talent, preferring to discuss his web of influences. His cultural intake flows in "waves," with film playing a significant role. Currently, he's captivated by *Only Lovers Left Alive*, Jim Jarmusch's 2013 vampire film starring Tilda Swinton, set in Tangier and Detroit.

His designs are deeply shaped by "70s rock and 80s and 90s grunge," he notes, often focusing on "fabrics that might not be perfect, that have a sense of decay." He mixes Debbie Harry's style with opulent Victoriana, drawn to silhouettes that follow the body's form before twisting into something slightly fantastical.

"I wasn't always the best designer, but through striving to improve—watching films, reading, listening to music, experiencing art—I've grown. Engaging with diverse influences is essential for growth; I firmly believe that."

![Lewis with a red mask across his eyes](https://i.guim.co.uk/img/media/61fb5a700fc080001b4ee29b2c2d9893fdb4bdfc/0_544_2075_2586/master/2075.jpg?width=445&dpr=1&s=none&crop=none)
*Lewis says his personal style is not always practical. Photograph: Stephanie Lewis*

Lewis's personal fashion echoes the sex appeal and intensity of 70s rock: flared pants, peaked collars, gothic boots. "Assembling outfits taps into that design mindset, even when I'm not actively designing," he shares. His style isn't always practical: "I've been known to wear heeled boots on a hike."

## Global Reach and Digital Discovery

Based in Melbourne, Lewis's work has propelled him worldwide this year, from LA to Paris, Italy to South Korea. Born in Australia, he speaks with an international school accent, a result of his father's diplomatic career that moved the family through the Philippines, Vietnam, India, New Zealand, and Austria during his youth.

His recent design for K-pop star Rosé's performance in Taiwan featured a feather boa in swirling black and white, inspired by the tail feathers of Taiwan's native magpie.

That opportunity emerged via **Instagram**. The internet has erased geographical barriers; most of his initial high-profile clients discovered him online. "With the internet, you can succeed from anywhere," he states. "I'm living proof."

Yet, online visibility doesn't negate the tendency for Australian designers to be overlooked until they gain international acclaim. "Often, attention goes to those already established abroad. We still view Paris and Milan as the ultimate fashion hubs. We don't spotlight local talent until it's validated overseas."

Celebrity partnerships have also propelled his career. "True fashion artistry today is carried by celebrities," he observes. "They have the resources to enable this kind of creative exploration, to let ideas run wild."

![Lady Gaga performs in the red 'stage' dress](https://i.guim.co.uk/img/media/2149ad6855e7b47e2c81755232b8d2d2255d15b8/0_0_4368_2912/master/4368.jpg?width=445&dpr=1&s=none&crop=none)
*Lady Gaga at a rehearsal for her free concert on Copacabana beach in Rio de Janeiro this year. Photograph: Bruna Prado/AP*

## Looking Ahead: Debut Collection and Future Visions

Lewis is now focusing on his debut collection, set to launch in the first half of 2026. It will blend made-to-order and ready-to-wear pieces, inspired by "the concept of collecting items over time, finding beauty in everything without fixating on its meaning—just seeing the magic in it."

Like a vampire Tilda Swinton? He concurs, with a qualifier: "Less existential."

His challenge is to incorporate the corsetry and "extreme-looking pieces" he designs for celebrities into wearable fashion without demanding that customers "sacrifice" their comfort.

"I truly want to create something that makes people wonder, 'What is that? How does it function?'"

Samuel Lewis had to push his limits for the pop star’s global tour, set to hit his home town Melbourne next week

How a 26-Year-Old Designer's Engineering Feats Are Shaping Lady Gaga's Iconic Stage Costumes

Welcome to **How They Pulled It Off**, where we take a close look at one particularly challenging aspect of a home design and get the nitty-gritty details about how it became a reality.

## The Transformation of a Park Slope Townhouse

The owner of a classic early 20th-century Park Slope, Brooklyn, townhome lived in the home for well over three decades before deciding to have it completely refreshed. Already well into their "**empty nester**" phase, they wanted to reimagine the 3,800-square-foot home to better accommodate their new lifestyle—largely centered on entertaining friends and visiting family. After touring a similar property down the street that was meticulously updated by interior architect **Merrill Lyons**, principal of **Lyons Studio**, they called on her to revamp the home and apply her distinctive approach. "They’d done some small updates over the years but nothing of tremendous significance and this was their chance to do what they had dreamed of for so long," says Lyons.

![With new floors and wall detailing reconstituted by skilled carpenters to as closely match the originals as possible, other historical details were cleverly reused. The reconstructed main stairwell incorporates the preexisting newel posts.](https://images2.dwell.com/photos/6063391372700811264/7399160642115710976/original.jpg?auto=format&q=35&w=160)

![A dramatic stone surround for the hearth keeps to the client’s preferred neutral-forward palette, but adds visual interest, texture, and a bit of warmth, too.](https://images2.dwell.com/photos/6063391372700811264/7399160739968823296/original.jpg?auto=format&q=35&w=160)

## Balancing Historical Preservation with Modernization

Her goal was to create a **modernized home that still retains key historical features**; the winning characteristic of a space for which the owners had been stewards of for so long. "When we first walked through the home, there was an overwhelming amount of dark Victorian wood detailing," the architect adds. "While impressive and beautiful, we knew that in order to implement upgrades that the home required, we would have to edit out some ornamental features."

On the main parlor level, Lyons and her team opened up what had been dark, closed-off spaces and narrow hallways. The same strategy was used in the bedrooms and bathrooms on subsequent floors. Much of the internal systems—**plumbing, electrical, and HVAC**—were replaced, as were the well-worn floors and crown moldings no longer up to code.

![In the primary bathroom, defined by the pink stained-glass window, the architect and her team painstakingly sourced slabs of Vagli Rosato pink-and-purple marble to wrap the walls around the shower and bathtub.](https://images2.dwell.com/photos/6063391372700811264/7399161158224818176/original.jpg?auto=format&q=35&w=160)

![In the powder room, a red travertine motif continues from the floor up to the slab sink.](https://images2.dwell.com/photos/6063391372700811264/7399161132895416320/original.jpg?auto=format&q=35&w=160)

## The Power of Color and Unconventional Materials

"The homeowners steered toward a more contemporary style," Lyons says. "They especially had an affinity for using high contrast elements of black and white so it was a brave move for them to trust us in our expansive use of color. We played with the use of **eclectic pieces, color, and texture** to contextualize the finishes and furnishings in the home. The mix of historic and contemporary designs play off each other beautifully and it’s the kind of space that is inviting and interesting at the same time."

![On first impression, the gray kitchen cabinets might seem typical but what elevates them is the terra-cotta Breccia Pernice marble countertop and backsplash they anchor, not to mention the monomaterial island. "If you took that same kitchen and replaced the marble with a solid colored quartz you’d have an entirely different looking kitchen that would have significantly less visual impact," Lyons says.](https://images2.dwell.com/photos/6063391372700811264/7399160984530300928/original.jpg?auto=format&q=35&w=160)

## The Practical Approach to Stone Selection

Lyons takes a particularly **pragmatic approach when it comes to choosing the right marbles and stones** in her projects. The constraints, as with any other finish or fixture, are **budget and performance**; how well the material can hold up to wear and tear. After that, it comes down to aesthetics, figuring out what color and vein structure would be the best to bring out existing tones and textures of a room. "We also consider where stone is going and how we can make it unique with fabrication details and laying out the pieces that utilize the parts of the slabs," she concludes. "In New York, we’re spoiled for choice when it comes to finding a stoneyard, and yet sourcing obscure materials here still requires a lot of back and forth trips. Oftentimes, finding the right type of stone is just the beginning of the process but it takes relentless searching."

## How They Pulled It Off: The Right Stone to Transform a Space

- **Consider cost and durability as much as aesthetics**: A stone might primarily be chosen for its visual qualities, what a color or vein structure provides in terms of texture or mood. But when considering where and how it might be used (as a kitchen backsplash or fireplace hearth), **durability, and of course, cost needs to be taken into consideration**. Someone might want a particularly expensive marble for their kitchen and later realize that it doesn’t hold up to repeated use and staining.

- **Stones that play-off and riff-on existing features**: The materials brought into a space—historical or new—should reflect its visual and aesthetic conditions: how light moves through but also what function it serves. One should take in account the **layout of the space and what key features need to be accentuated**.

- **Using your resources the right way**: Stoneyards can be found in most places. The trick is not to settle for the first, most obvious options and to instead **dig a bit deeper in looking for material that best matches your specific requirements**. Working with skilled craftspeople or fabricators is also essential.

"I sometimes like to joke that we don’t use ‘normal’ stone and perhaps this project is a good example of that," Lyons says. "**Amazingly colorful and unusual marble makes this home what it is** in many ways."

### Project Credits:

*Architect of Record: Giulio Zoida, GZ & NC Code Consulting*

*Builder/General Contractor: Delta Contractors*

*Structural Engineer: Blue Sky Design*

*Lighting and Interior Design: Merrill Lyons, Lyons Studio / @lyonsstudio*

Interior architect Merrill Lyons transformed a turn-of-the-20th-century Brooklyn brownstone with some unique marble and travertine.

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