The Stage as a Dress: Samuel Lewis's Vision for Lady Gaga
It begins in a cascade of crimson: a stage draped in red curtains, lights flashing in scarlet hues. This is Lady Gaga, where theatricality is expected. As the lights brighten, it becomes clear she isn't standing on a massive stage—she's wearing it.
A militaristic bodice extends into the sweeping velvet drapes of a 7.5-meter-high gown. "It's not just a dress; it's a moving piece of art, an engineering feat," explains Australian-Taiwanese designer Samuel Lewis, who conceived the design in collaboration with LA-based costume designer Athena Lawton.
The full scope of the costume reveals itself when Gaga's skirt opens to expose a metal cage beneath, with dancers twisting and reaching behind its steel bars. Lewis pushed his creative boundaries to envision and execute this design. "We had to ask, how enormous can something like this be?"
Lady Gaga attends the 67th Grammy awards in a costume by Samuel Lewis. Photograph: Axelle/Bauer-Griffin/FilmMagic
Gaga's Mayhem Ball tour, a full-throttle return to over-the-top camp, isn't the first collaboration between her and the 26-year-old designer. Beyond crafting all the looks for the tour's first act, Lewis designed her outfits for the 2025 Grammys and music videos for "Disease" (a grey illusion gown of hand-dyed silk, evoking decay) and "Abracadabra" (a red-boned silk dress showcasing his passion for corsetry).
Since graduating from Florence's Polimoda in 2024, Lewis has rapidly gained recognition in celebrity circles for blending meticulous engineering with a chaotic, grungy romanticism—a fusion that makes his work feel both dynamic and disciplined.
He immerses himself in complex constructions: Russian-doll dresses within dresses, flawlessly boned corsets, and pieces that move, interlock, and transform. These creations must function under pressure, supporting weight and enduring vigorous stage performances. Designing for aesthetics is one challenge; designing for durability during a show is entirely another.
Other stars who have embraced his work include Chappell Roan, members of Blackpink, Julia Fox, and Madonna. He's also crafting Christina Aguilera's look for a Christmas special.
Julia Fox wearing a custom dress from Lewis. Photograph: Jacopo M Raule/Getty Images for Luisaviaroma
Influences and Inspirations: From Film to Fabrics
Lewis dismisses notions of precocious talent, preferring to discuss his web of influences. His cultural intake flows in "waves," with film playing a significant role. Currently, he's captivated by Only Lovers Left Alive, Jim Jarmusch's 2013 vampire film starring Tilda Swinton, set in Tangier and Detroit.
His designs are deeply shaped by "70s rock and 80s and 90s grunge," he notes, often focusing on "fabrics that might not be perfect, that have a sense of decay." He mixes Debbie Harry's style with opulent Victoriana, drawn to silhouettes that follow the body's form before twisting into something slightly fantastical.
"I wasn't always the best designer, but through striving to improve—watching films, reading, listening to music, experiencing art—I've grown. Engaging with diverse influences is essential for growth; I firmly believe that."
Lewis says his personal style is not always practical. Photograph: Stephanie Lewis
Lewis's personal fashion echoes the sex appeal and intensity of 70s rock: flared pants, peaked collars, gothic boots. "Assembling outfits taps into that design mindset, even when I'm not actively designing," he shares. His style isn't always practical: "I've been known to wear heeled boots on a hike."
Global Reach and Digital Discovery
Based in Melbourne, Lewis's work has propelled him worldwide this year, from LA to Paris, Italy to South Korea. Born in Australia, he speaks with an international school accent, a result of his father's diplomatic career that moved the family through the Philippines, Vietnam, India, New Zealand, and Austria during his youth.
His recent design for K-pop star Rosé's performance in Taiwan featured a feather boa in swirling black and white, inspired by the tail feathers of Taiwan's native magpie.
That opportunity emerged via Instagram. The internet has erased geographical barriers; most of his initial high-profile clients discovered him online. "With the internet, you can succeed from anywhere," he states. "I'm living proof."
Yet, online visibility doesn't negate the tendency for Australian designers to be overlooked until they gain international acclaim. "Often, attention goes to those already established abroad. We still view Paris and Milan as the ultimate fashion hubs. We don't spotlight local talent until it's validated overseas."
Celebrity partnerships have also propelled his career. "True fashion artistry today is carried by celebrities," he observes. "They have the resources to enable this kind of creative exploration, to let ideas run wild."
Lady Gaga at a rehearsal for her free concert on Copacabana beach in Rio de Janeiro this year. Photograph: Bruna Prado/AP
Looking Ahead: Debut Collection and Future Visions
Lewis is now focusing on his debut collection, set to launch in the first half of 2026. It will blend made-to-order and ready-to-wear pieces, inspired by "the concept of collecting items over time, finding beauty in everything without fixating on its meaning—just seeing the magic in it."
Like a vampire Tilda Swinton? He concurs, with a qualifier: "Less existential."
His challenge is to incorporate the corsetry and "extreme-looking pieces" he designs for celebrities into wearable fashion without demanding that customers "sacrifice" their comfort.
"I truly want to create something that makes people wonder, 'What is that? How does it function?'"
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